Sorovako, yomwe ili pachilumba cha Sulawesi ku Indonesia, ndi imodzi mwa migodi yayikulu kwambiri ya nickel padziko lonse lapansi. Nickel ndi gawo losaoneka la zinthu zambiri za tsiku ndi tsiku: imasowa mu chitsulo chosapanga dzimbiri, zinthu zotenthetsera m'zida zapakhomo ndi ma electrode m'mabatire. Inapangidwa zaka zoposa mamiliyoni awiri zapitazo pamene mapiri ozungulira Sorovako anayamba kuonekera m'malo olakwika. Ma laterites - dothi lokhala ndi iron oxide ndi nickel - adapangidwa chifukwa cha kuwonongeka kosalekeza kwa mvula yamvula. Pamene ndinayendetsa scooter pamwamba pa phiri, nthaka nthawi yomweyo inasintha mtundu kukhala wofiira ndi mizere ya lalanje ngati magazi. Ndinatha kuona chomera cha nickel chokha, chimney chofiirira chofiirira chofanana ndi mzinda. Matayala ang'onoang'ono agalimoto akuluakulu ofanana ndi galimoto akuunjikana. Misewu yodutsa m'mapiri ofiira otsetsereka ndipo maukonde akuluakulu amaletsa kugwa kwa nthaka. Mabasi a kampani ya migodi ya Mercedes-Benz amanyamula antchito. Mbendera ya kampaniyo imawulutsidwa ndi magalimoto a kampani ndi ma ambulansi akunja kwa msewu. Dziko lapansi ndi lamapiri komanso lokhala ndi mabowo, ndipo nthaka yofiira yathyathyathya imapindidwa kukhala trapezoid yozungulira. Malowa atetezedwa ndi waya wopingasa, zipata, magetsi owunikira magalimoto ndi apolisi amakampani omwe akuyang'anira malo ocheperako okwana pafupifupi kukula kwa London.
Mgodiwu umayendetsedwa ndi PT Vale, yomwe mbali yake ndi ya maboma a Indonesia ndi Brazil, ndipo magawo ake ndi a makampani aku Canada, Japan ndi mayiko ena ambiri. Indonesia ndiye wopanga nickel wamkulu kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi, ndipo Vale ndiye kampani yachiwiri yayikulu kwambiri yomanga nickel pambuyo pa Norilsk Nickel, kampani yaku Russia yomwe ikupanga ndalama ku Siberia. Mu Marichi, pambuyo pa kuukira kwa Russia ku Ukraine, mitengo ya nickel idakwera kawiri patsiku ndipo malonda pa London Metal Exchange adayimitsidwa kwa sabata imodzi. Zochitika ngati izi zimapangitsa anthu ngati Elon Musk kudabwa komwe nickel yawo idachokera. Mu Meyi, adakumana ndi Purezidenti wa Indonesia Joko Widodo kuti akambirane za "mgwirizano" womwe ungatheke. Ali ndi chidwi chifukwa magalimoto amagetsi akutali amafuna nickel. Batire ya Tesla ili ndi makilogalamu pafupifupi 40. Mosadabwitsa, boma la Indonesia likufuna kwambiri kusamukira ku magalimoto amagetsi ndipo likukonzekera kukulitsa zovomerezeka za migodi. Pakadali pano, Vale akufuna kumanga zosungunulira ziwiri zatsopano ku Sorovaco ndikukweza chimodzi mwa izo.
Kukumba nikeli ku Indonesia ndi chinthu chatsopano. Kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 1900, boma lachikoloni la Dutch East Indies linayamba kukonda "zinthu za m'mphepete mwa nyanja", zilumba zina kupatula Java ndi Madura, zomwe zinali zambiri mwa zilumbazi. Mu 1915, mainjiniya wa migodi wa ku Dutch Eduard Abendanon adanena kuti adapeza malo osungira nikeli ku Sorovako. Patatha zaka makumi awiri, HR "Flat" Elves, katswiri wa za nthaka ku kampani ya ku Canada ya Inco, anafika ndipo anakumba dzenje loyesera. Ku Ontario, Inco imagwiritsa ntchito nikeli kupanga ndalama ndi zida za zida, mabomba, zombo ndi mafakitale. Kuyesa kwa Elves kufalikira ku Sulawesi kunalepheretsedwa ndi kulanda dziko la Japan ku Indonesia mu 1942. Mpaka kubwerera kwa Inco m'zaka za m'ma 1960, nikeli sinakhudzidwe kwambiri.
Mwa kupambana mgwirizano wa Sorovaco mu 1968, Inco ankayembekezera kupindula ndi ntchito zambiri zotsika mtengo komanso mapangano otumiza kunja opindulitsa. Dongosolo linali lomanga chitoliro cha chitsulo, damu loti lidyetse, ndi miyala, ndikubweretsa antchito aku Canada kuti aziyang'anira zonse. Inco ankafuna malo otetezeka kwa oyang'anira awo, dera lotetezedwa bwino la North America m'nkhalango ya Indonesia. Kuti amange, adalemba ntchito mamembala a gulu lauzimu la Indonesia Subud. Mtsogoleri wake komanso woyambitsa ndi Muhammad Subuh, yemwe ankagwira ntchito ngati akauntanti ku Java m'ma 1920. Akuti usiku wina, pamene anali kuyenda, kuwala kowala kunamugwera pamutu. Izi zinkamuchitikira usiku uliwonse kwa zaka zingapo, ndipo, malinga ndi iye, zinatsegula "mgwirizano pakati pa mphamvu yaumulungu yomwe imadzaza chilengedwe chonse ndi moyo wa munthu." Pofika m'ma 1950, John Bennett, wofufuza mafuta aku Britain komanso wotsatira George Gurdjieff wachinsinsi. Bennett anaitana Subuh ku England mu 1957 ndipo anabwerera ku Jakarta ndi gulu latsopano la ophunzira aku Europe ndi Australia.
Mu 1966, gululi linapanga kampani yopanda luso lochita uinjiniya yotchedwa International Design Consultants, yomwe inamanga masukulu ndi nyumba zamaofesi ku Jakarta (inapanganso pulani yayikulu ya Darling Harbor ku Sydney). Iye akupereka malo ochitira zinthu ku Sorovako, malo osiyana ndi anthu aku Indonesia, kutali ndi chisokonezo cha migodi, koma omwe anali ndi zonse zofunikira. Mu 1975, dera lokhala ndi zitseko zokhala ndi sitolo yayikulu, mabwalo a tenisi ndi kalabu ya gofu ya ogwira ntchito akunja linamangidwa makilomita ochepa kuchokera ku Sorovako. Apolisi achinsinsi amateteza malo ozungulira ndi khomo lolowera ku supermarket. Inco imapereka magetsi, madzi, ma air conditioner, mafoni ndi chakudya chochokera kunja. Malinga ndi Katherine May Robinson, katswiri wa zachikhalidwe cha anthu yemwe ankagwira ntchito kumunda kumeneko pakati pa 1977 ndi 1981, "akazi ovala mabulangete afupiafupi a Bermuda ndi ma buns ankayendetsa galimoto kupita ku supermarket kukagula pizza yozizira kenako n’kuima kuti akadye chakudya chokoma ndikumwa khofi panja. Chipinda chokhala ndi air conditioner paulendo wobwerera kunyumba ndi "bodza lamakono" kuchokera kunyumba kwa mnzawo.
Malo osungiramo zinthu zakale akuyang'aniridwabe. Tsopano atsogoleri apamwamba aku Indonesia amakhala kumeneko, m'nyumba yokhala ndi munda wosamalidwa bwino. Koma malo opezeka anthu ambiri adzaza ndi udzu, simenti yosweka, ndi malo osewerera a dzimbiri. Nyumba zina zasiyidwa ndipo nkhalango zalowa m'malo mwake. Ndinauzidwa kuti izi ndi chifukwa cha kugula kwa Vale kampani ya Inco mu 2006 komanso kusamuka kuchoka kuntchito yanthawi zonse kupita kuntchito ya kontrakitala komanso antchito oyenda pang'onopang'ono. Kusiyana pakati pa madera ozungulira ndi Sorovako tsopano kumadalira magulu a anthu: oyang'anira amakhala m'madera ozungulira, antchito amakhala mumzinda.
Malo otsetserekawo ndi osafikirika, ndipo mapiri okwana masikweya kilomita 12,000 ozunguliridwa ndi mipanda. Zipata zingapo zili ndi anthu ndipo misewu imayang'aniridwa. Malo omwe akukumba migodi - pafupifupi masikweya kilomita 75 - ali ndi mpanda ndi waya waminga. Usiku wina ndinali kukwera njinga yanga yamoto ndikukwera phiri ndipo ndinayima. Sindinathe kuwona mulu wa zinyalala zomwe zinali kuseri kwa phirilo, koma ndinayang'ana zotsalira za smelting, yomwe inali pafupi ndi kutentha kwa lava, ikutsika m'phirimo. Kuwala kwa lalanje kunayamba kuyaka, kenako mtambo unakwera mumdima, ukufalikira mpaka unawombedwa ndi mphepo. Mphindi zochepa zilizonse, kuphulika kwatsopano kopangidwa ndi munthu kunaunikira thambo.
Njira yokhayo yomwe anthu omwe si antchito angalowere mu mgodi ndi kudzera mu Nyanja ya Matano, kotero ndinakwera bwato. Kenako Amos, yemwe ankakhala m'mphepete mwa nyanja, ananditsogolera kudutsa m'minda ya tsabola mpaka tinafika pansi pa phiri lomwe kale linali phiri ndipo tsopano ndi chipolopolo chopanda kanthu, kusakhalapo. Nthawi zina mungapite ku ulendo wopita kumalo komwe ndinachokera, ndipo mwina apa ndi pomwe gawo la ndalama zomwe zinandithandiza paulendo wanga: magalimoto, ndege, ma scooter, ma laputopu, mafoni.
Editor London Review of Books, 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HNletters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and telephone number.
The Editor London Review of Books 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HN Letters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and phone number
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